Is Ukraine European?

LVIV, UKRAINE: It was a pleasant summer afternoon in Lviv, the major city of western Ukraine. Liberty Avenue near the city opera was crowded. Kids were laughing in a little amusement park and some elderly men were playing chess. Clean, well-kept lawns, straight pavements and newly renovated baroque and early 20th century buildings made it look like a typical European city.It would be easy to confuse that area with some street in Poland or Italy.
With its theaters, museums, art galleries, famous pubs and elegant restaurants the city is a vibrant and cultural metropolis.
“In this part of the country you can see strong influences of renaissance and other western architectural styles, something which is unheard of in the eastern, Russian-speaking part,” my companion, a Polish political scientist, told me.
Lviv’s history makes it truly European. The city, established by a Ruthenian ruler in 13th century, became a part of the kingdom of Poland in 1340. Four hundred years later, it was taken over by the Austro-Hungarian empire and then became a jewel in the crown of the second Polish Republic. After the World War II, it was incorporated into the Soviet Union but now, in the independent Ukraine, its citizens want to see themselves as people of the west.
It is not only country’s western side which had such a complicated history. Basically, the country is divided into three cultural zones. The western has a majority Ukrainian speakers and strong patriotic traditions. Central part has mixed population and indigenous character. Italian architects and intellectuals were active there and helped to create a unique mixture of the east and the west. People in the eastern part speak mostly Russian and the region has close economic and cultural ties with Russia. But some cities in the east, including now occupied Donetsk, have been founded by western entrepreneurs. Ukraine remains the largest country entirely situated in Europe and in the time of war its complex identity seems to be the key to understand the conflict.
Vibes of war
Last November, public protests began in Kiev, country’s capital. The protesters demanded closer European integration after the government, under the pressure from Moscow, refused to sign a free trade agreement with the European Union. The outcry eventually led to violent clashes and overthrow of the president who fled to Russia. Moscow said interim government appointed by the Ukrainian parliament was illegal and annexed the strategic southern peninsula of Crimea which, like the eastern districts, has majority of ethnically Russian citizens. The open military conflict has broken out after separatists in the east announced independence of two districts and their will to join Russia. Since then, thousands of Ukrainian men fight and die to keep their country’s integrity.
A lot has changed in Lviv within a few months. Some of the changes could be seen straight away: numerous Ukrainian and European flags and memorials of the heroes of the public protests in Kiev are now dotting the area. A couple thousand refugees from Crimea and the east are taking shelter in the city. Some hotels have been even hosting them for free. They are also supported by NGOs and locals although not always warmly welcomed as some of them think that all the young men should join the army to fight against pro-Russia rebels as their sons and friends do. At once, people felt their place is among EU nations and they must fight for it.
Every couple of days, they bring bodies back to Lviv. “One week, they send 300 recruits to the east, the next 30 of them come back home in coffins,” said Marta, a young Ukrainian journalist. “It is a real war and nobody uses a different term relating to it,” she added. About 100 injured soldiers are being treated in the local military hospital and there are more and more homeless veterans on the streets. Still, the citizens could hardly believe that their country is involved in a conventional military conflict. Then terrorist attacks began. Last month, city’s mayor’s house was hit by an anti-tank rocket while mayor of central Ukrainian city of Kremenchuk was shot dead.
The war atmosphere keeps people united and somewhat cheerful. There are juicy and vulgar anti-Putin slogans on the walls. In the towns, you can easily get toilet paper and doormats with Russian president’s face. He is widely compared to Hitler and called “Putler” which is a major insult.
People are also trying to support their underfunded military. “We collected some money in our village,” said three men we met by the Polish border. They came from Lviv district and were about to go to Poland to buy some razors and military backpacks they wanted to donate to the army. “They have stolen everything during former president Yanukovych’s rules and that’s why now we have no equipment to defend ourselves,” a border guard said.
The EU border crossing works smoothly although the traffic is less. From here, it is still more than a thousand kilometers to the war zone and people feel relatively safe. “Have you come back from Donetsk, with those bullet holes?” the gas station worker asked our driver pointing at the corroded door. Both men laughed. They believe nothing bad is going to happen in this district. It’s almost the European Union after all.